On the banks of the Mississippi River, the Gateway Arch frames St Louis. The city has always been a jumping-off point for people headed in every direction, but especially to points west. Today, St Louis is a magnet for young and ambitious folks from vast areas of farmland and small towns surrounding it. It's no surprise that St Louis has a large and growing gay population.

St Louis was founded by the French fur trader Pierre Laclade and his teenage "stepson" Auguste Chouteau in 1764. Laclade's Landing is a vibrant riverfront district of shops, pubs and restaurants. It hosts events such as the Big Muddy Blues Festival on Labor Day Weekend.

Gay people have been important players in the restoration of many elegant old neighborhoods. As the Central West End, (once the center of gay life), became gentrified, gays moved to the Soulard, South Grand, and other neighborhoods. South Grand and Tower Grove Park are where Pride is celebrated each year. Recently the Grove area on Manchester became the district with the most gay bars.

Accommodations

Take a break from cookie-cutter hotels at two guesthouses in the Soulard area, both owned by gay couples who live on site, know the history of the city, and can fill you in on gay life. Book early, as they both fill quickly.

Brewers House B.&B. (1829 Lami; 314-771-1542) Civil War-era home, fireplace, wi-fi, sunny garden with hot tub.

St. Louis Guest House (1032-38 Allen; 314-773- 1016) brick townhouses overlook Clementine's, kitchenettes, wi-fi, hot tub in private courtyard.

Bars & Clubs

The gay scene isn't centered in one neighborhood in St Louis. There are several clusters of gay life, each with it's own character.

Bars & Clubs: North Midtown to Central West End
Magnolias (5 South Vandeventer) three bars on two levels, dance floor, drag cabaret shows, restaurant.

The Zone (16 South Euclid, Central West End) known as the Loading Zone, hot guys, video bar, show tune sing-alongs.

Bars & Clubs: South Midtown and the Grove

The district blossomed recently when several new bars opened.
Bad Dog Saloon (3960 Chouteau Ave) new bar for biker-, leather-and fetish-loving men.
Complex (3515 Chouteau) top dance club, drag shows, big crowds, easy parking, 18-plus nights.
Erney's 32 Degree Vodka Bar (4200 Manchester) huge vodka cooler, sipping station, comfortable lounge.
Just Johns (4112 Manchester Ave) formerly called Freddie's, video bar, dance floor, open-air patio bar.
JJ's Clubhouse, (3858 Market) time- honored institution, denim and leather bar, shop, tournaments and competitions.
Premium Bar (4199 Manchester) best selection of top shelf liquor, relaxed and tranquil atmosphere.
Rehab Lounge (4054 Chouteau Ave) newly opened, fast becoming the daytime hotspot.

Bars & Clubs: Soulard

Bastille Cobalt Grill (1027 Russell) Mardi Gras atmosphere, local hangout, bar and grill, friendly vibe.
Clementines (2001 Menard) New Orleans-style bar, outdoor patio, popular holiday pig roasts.

Bars & Clubs: South Grand to South Broadway

Absolutli Goosed (3196 South Grand) primarily for women, mixed crowd, fine martinis.
Grey Fox (3503 South Spring) neighborhood bar, weekend drag and variety show.
Hummel's Pub (7101 South Broadway) took over Korners old location, drag shows and entertainment.
Korners (7109 South Broadway) recently relocated, darts and games, drag shows, live entertainment.

Across the River

Bubby & Sissy's (602 Belle St, Alton) near Argosy Casino, two levels, dance floor, female impersonators, huge patio.

Boxers 'n Briefs, (55 Four Corners Ln, Centreville) non-stop strippers, public or private shows, 18- plus admission.

Restaurants

South Grand's dining options include Vietnamese, Thai, Latin American, and Chinese. Soulard, the Central West End, and the Grove area on Manchester, have lots of options as well.

Bastille Cobalt Grill (1027 Russell, Soulard) hearty fare, nothing-fancy menu, booths and sidewalk tables. Chava's Mexican Restaurant (925 Geyer, Soulard) local favorite, satisfying servings, traditional fare and local recipes.

Chez Leon (4580 Laclede Ave, Central West End) fine French cuisine, house-made country pate full bar.
Coffee Cartel (2 Maryland Plaza, Central West End) open 24 hours, big variety of coffees and ice cream, youthful crowd. MokaBe's (3606 Arsenal, Tower Grove Park) gay cafŽ, email, coffee, sandwiches and baked goodies. Novak's (4121 Manchester) everyday bar and grill, basic and hearty food, friendly gay atmosphere. O My Darling Café (2001 Menard, Soulard) at Clementine's, New Orleans and local fare, nightly specials, weekend brunch.

Pho Grand (3195 South Grand) authentic Vietnamese food, gracious service, lunch and dinner menus.
Soulard Farmer's Market (Lafayette at Seventh) since 1838, fresh produce, baked goods, famous donuts. St. Louis Bread (3114 S Grand) a St Louis original, soups, sandwiches, baked goods, internet.
Soulard Coffee Garden Cafe (910 Geyer) omelets, sandwiches, pastries, good coffee, inside or garden seating, relaxed vibe.

Ted Drewes (4224 S Grand) unforgettable place, old-fashioned treats, respite on hot summer days.
Wild Flower (4590 Laclede, Central West End) Greenwich Village-style bistro, open for lunch, brunch and dinner.

Saunas

Club St. Louis (2625 Samuel Shepard Dr) outdoor pool, complete sauna facilities, private sling room.

Shopping

Cheap Trx (3211 South Grand) stuff seen nowhere else, amazing emporium, leather store, safe piercing and tattooing.

Priscilla’s (3550 Grand) the city's best selection of sex toys and accessories for every orientation.

Getting here

From Lambert International Airport, shuttle services, hotel courtesy vans and taxis compete to bring you to the city center. As far as public transit goes, MetroLink Light Rail gets you downtown from the airport for $3.75.

Getting around

For getting around the city, a MetroBus day pass is $7.50. Renting a car is not a bad idea here, as traffic and parking are a breeze compared to most cities of this size.

Pride Days

St. Louis Pride
Parade on Grand from Gravois to Tower Grove Park.
June 27-28
Pridestl.org

St. Louis Black Pride

Last year's events included a film festival and parties all over town.
August 14-16
Myspace.com/stlouisblackpride

Local media

Riverfront Times is the local alternative weekly. Saint Louis Unlimited is a new gay bar publication. Vital Voice is the monthly gay newspaper.